About a year ago, I read this article by Jeff Varasano and decided to embark on my own quest to make the best pizza I could. I don’t think my results were anything near the quality as what Mr. Varasano produced, but I think it’s a little more attainable and still quite tasty.
I should start by saying this pizza recipe fascinates me because it stands apart from all my other recipes. Most recipes are basically combinatorial – put the right things together and get them sufficiently warm. A few move into the realm of being chemical or biological (using bacteria or a chemical leavener to add fluffiness). This recipe is very mechanical. Having the right ingredients and getting the yeast to activate is not enough to make a great pizza. How the dough is physically handled makes a huge difference.
The recipe is simple:
- 1 cup warm water
- 1 package (2.5 tsp) yeast
- 1 tsp salt
- 2 tsp sugar
- flour
- olive oil
- corn meal
- mozzarella cheese
- pizza sauce
- smoked swiss
- basil
Start by putting 1 cup of warm water in a mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast on top (if you just dump it all it, it clumps together and does not activate as well). Then sprinkle the sugar and salt in as well. Let that stand for 5 minutes. Use that 5 minutes to preheat the oven to the lowest setting (as soon as it beeps to say that it’s pre-heated, turn it off, we just need a warm oven for the dough to rise). Also during this 5 minutes, put the mozzarella cheese in a wire mesh strainer and rinse it under cold water. I found that most mozzarella cheese that I buy in the store has a fine layer powder that prevents it from completely melting, washing this in cold water will remedy that.
After the five minutes is done, we’re going to add flour and knead the dough. Notice that I did not put a quantity on the flour; I have no idea how much flour goes into a pizza, I only know the correct texture. Start by putting in a cup of flour and start kneading. I use a Kitchen Aid with a dough hook, I’m sure it can be done by hand, but it’s going to take a long time. On my mixer, it takes about 20 minutes to knead the dough. Slowly add flour a 1/4 cup at a time. The goal here is to keep the dough as wet as possible and have it be just workable in the end. The dough will get very stretchy near the end. Another sign that the dough has reach the right consistency is that when I add the last 1/4 cup of flour, the dough will briefly form a ball, then mix back down and not quite ball up. There is no good way to describe the dough, but this is the crucial step. I think you simply have to accept that you’ll make a few pizza’s where you add too much flour, then you’ll make one pizza where you don’t add enough and then you’ll have the hang of it. So don’t plan on your first few pizzas being great.
When the kneading is done I throw a few table spoons of flour on top and work it underneath the dough using a spatula. This way I have a nice ball of dough that is well floured on the outside but still very wet at the center. If I try to pick this up with my hands, I can’t, the dough would ooze through my fingers. Cover the bowl with a cloth and stick it in the oven which should still be warm (remember, we pre-heated and turned off the oven on the lowest setting, so it should not be on right now). Wait one hour for the dough to rise.
After 1 hour, take the dough out of the oven and turn the oven to it’s highest setting (550F in my case) Also move one of the racks to the lowest setting. Get out a cookie tray, and put about a teaspoon of olive oil (I don’t measure this, just eyeball it) on it and rub it around to coat the pan (just use your hands and wash them before and after). Then sprinkle some cornmeal on the tray. The combination of the oil and cornmeal will keep the dough from sticking to the pan and it gives it a nice texture. This next part is tricky, we’ve just got all that air into the dough while it was rising, every time we touch it now, we’re damaging that; so the challenge is to get the dough in the right shape on the tray touching and moving it as little as possible. Pour the dough out onto the tray (it should ooze out of the bowl) and dust with a little flour (just enough that it won’t stick to your hands). You now want to go around the edges and pull the dough into the correct shape, it should be very stretchy and easy to shape. Don’t spread it, that will push the cornmeal around, grab the dough (gently) and lift it (gently) then pull (gently) placing it down in the right place. After a few tries you should be able to completely shape the pizza dough in less than a dozen motions.
After the oven is preheated, put the tray with just the dough on the lowest rack for 3 minutes. A ‘real’ pizza is cooked at 800F in a wood burning stone oven. This conducts a lot of heat to the dough quickly. Unless you build your own or hack your oven, this probably isn’t available to you so by putting just the dough in for 3 minutes, we can get the crust a little crisper with out burning the cheese. After 3 minutes pull out the dough, cover it it sauce. spread the mozzarella cheese around and grate a little bit of smoked swiss over the top (this makes a big difference but you only need a little, one block of smoked swiss is easily enough for a dozen pizzas). Sprinkle some basil on top. You can put toppings on the pizza if you like, but I swear it doesn’t need any.
Put the now topped pizza back in the oven still on the lowest rack. It’s only going to take a few minutes, but cook it until the cheese gets a little bubbly. Take it out, let it cool for a few minutes and eat!
This week I undertook the project of canning soup. The process started with a little research, mostly to see if it could be done safely. The consensus seemed to be that canning soup was safe as long as no grains or thickening agents were added (rice, noodles, flour – I also avoided barley and quinoa to be safe) and that the soup needed to be processed in a pressure cooker at 11psi for 60 minutes (for pints).
I got the original recipe that started all of this from
1 onion, diced
Christmas Chex Mix (11 batches, 120 Cups)
Homemade pasta is one of the most amazing things in the world. The first time you make it, it will take a long time, and might not come out to well. But after a couple time, this will be second nature. I was making this on such a regular basis at one point that I could make and cook this faster than it took boxed pasta to cook.
Much to my protest, a friend of mine insisted that I try some Ethiopian food a few months ago. I was surprised to find that it was not only delicious, but instantly catapulted to one of my favorites. I immediately learned how to cook it at home myself. And while the following recipes are not quite what you would get at a good Ethiopian restaurant, but they are quite delicious and pretty cheap to cook (see my article about spices). There are three recipes that go together to make a (very large) meal. Chicken (Doro Wat), lentils (Mesir Wat) and bread (Injera). Traditionally the chicken and lentils are eaten using the bread as a utensil, and the food is placed on one of the pieces of bread, so there is no waste that has to be washed off the plate. Instead of presenting this as three recipes I’m presenting it as one. That’s how I make it, and it took me a while to figure out how to fit all the pieces together so I could cook in a reasonable time.
Rice – cheap, delicious and healthy, what more could you want. Rice and beans are a staple of cooking in many cultures and for good reason.